Images of Mongolian horsemen laughing hysterically while riding beside the two humped camel caravans across the Gobi desert was my idea of Mongolia due entirely to my guidebook. This didn't exactly transpire as my first breath in the capital of ulan bator it was obvious, this place was even colder than Siberia. They don't call UB the coldest capital in the world for nothing, extreme temperatures of -46 degrees F in the winter are not uncommon. Unfortunately, visiting in October was already too late to do camel and yak trekking across the desert and steppes. But it was possible to visit nearby Terelj national park and stay in a ger (not a yurt as I thought they were called) to explore the rocky area.
Upon arriving in UB, a man approached us asking if we needed a hostel, spoon man negotiated and off we went to what I swear he said was France hostel, a bargain at $10 per night, ladies and gentlemen, we have left Russia and the highway robbery prices. He helped us with our luggage, (which is still entirely too much for flash packing), a big bonus in the cold and with my bum knee and at 6 am, having barely slept on the train again, a nice touch but I am not nearly as trusting as spoon man. Indeed, it was not a hostel, it was his home he took us to and did not smell the cleanest, it was not what I would have chosen but in the end turned out to be a good thing, much better to give to a local family vs. a hostel. I wasn't the happiest though as a cold shower after hours of skanky train travel wasn't my idea of a good time. But after crashing into sleep all morning and the family boiling water for us and giving us a padlock for the room, I shed my paranoia.
Decent, non-Russian (!) food was found and then a quick exploration of the city and travel arrangements were made. We were lucky with clear, not freezing weather to explore the monuments and hoods. UB is a dirty city, like most big cities but people were friendly and it was super easy to walk around. Did the usual pictures in warrior pose and of course no Mongolian visit is complete without cartwheeling in front of Genghis Khan statues.
Made a major foodie blunder: ate at an American franchised Mongolian BBQ restaurant. Gasp! But, hey, all in the name of research and yes it works the same although try not to add fat as one of your meats, yuck. Tons of Irish pubs, likely the result of ex-pats of the UN and the peace corps variety. Hit a major tourist destination: the first Mongol Irish pub, cheers, mate!
To truly experience Mongol life, it's recommended to spend time in the countryside. The drive out of UB was through poor, non-arable land with a thin top layer of grass and much trash. UB lies in a plateau with mountains all around and they didn't quit the whole 2 hour jeep ride. In the park itself, it began to turn rocky with horses and a two-humped!!!!!! camel hanging out by our ger-side. Due to the already unbearable winter in late October, the true nomads had already pushed on to warmer pastures, only the crazy tourists would want to spend a night in a ger. Cozy times, right? Yes and no, either you are so hot from the wood heater or brrrrr in a ger. Sorry, couldn't resist. The bathroom situation was good, used the main house where we had 3 hot, probably traditional Mongolian meals: meat-filled fried dumplings, coleslaw, beef stir-fry with bell peppers and rice and my favorite: the plastic wrapped choco-pie for dessert ;) Coffee consisted of a 3 in 1 mix of instant coffee, non- dairy creamer and sugar which was actually not bad, where has my coffee snobbiness gone?
After an hour of exploring the area, eating a huge meal, and taking a disco nap, what next? Our ride back to UB and civilization was 18 hours away and it ain't toasty here, what are two hyperactive peeps gonna do all cold with no camel or yak to ride? I know this might come as a total shocker but we read and talked like normal people. Yeah, ok, not entirely, we did decide to perform an exhumation of our party pinata, affectionately known as Pin E. Our hardy paper machie friend did not want to go down despite being nearly headless and in desperate need of some mechanical ventilation and nutrition support, he clearly had signs of kwashiorkor. It was time for Pin E to move on, in pinata years he was probably 90, we were doing him a huge favor. The wind was a factor, every last match was used to help him on his way, not a thought of how we would stay warm was given, all a sacrifice for the beloved child of spoon man. And so there he rests, on a rocky hillside in the Mongolian countryside aside gers and two-humped camels.
So....on to the ger. Caution: watch your head upon entering, at 5'6" I would've been a giant in nomadic times, yes, folks, I whacked my head forcefully upon entering, that'll learn me. At night, it was only necessary to have a candle and heat, the full moon was our lantern, nice light! Slept well even when the fire went out courtesy of a million blankets. Ahhhh, quiet countryside made a bit more fun during mealtimes with a local 3 year old entertaining us with his pow-pow antics and wanting his picture taken. Very cute!
Back to UB and another afternoon of exploring, this time in the snow, beautiful but cooolllldd! Visited the now working Gandan monastery, after years of Soviet rule, the monks were not allowed to practice and nearly 14,000 died for their beliefs. Gorgeous grounds!
Overall, loved Mongolia and want to return to get my yak on.....in the summer!
brrrr!!! Love reading your adventures :) Mon
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